L'Un des Sens
Franck Gérome and Jean-Charles Huon have just gifted the people of Le Mans with two new bars in the former Chapelle de la Visitation (1 Rue Gambetta): Racines for fermented grape juice, and A Contre Sens for hoppy barley. And yet, L’Un des Sens (high guéridon tables, a bar, a small lounge, a communal table, a terrace) still draws in big crowds thanks to its wine bible and blackboard menu hanging on the wall. Come for the cholesterol-rich platters (“Copains comme cochons,” “Porc vs port”…), Basque-style tripe and hot rillons, alongside smoked fish from Maison Lucas in Quiberon, smoked trout from Rémon in Mayenne, outstanding rillettes from the neighboring La Rouelle de Veau, charcuterie from Pierre Oteiza, jésus saucisson from the volcanic Auvergne and raw cow’s milk tomme cheese from the Sarthe GAEC Le Pis qui Cante… All the things we love! // G.D.
FEELING THIRSTY? Pick from one of 300 labels in the far-ranging wine collection. From the 20 or so wines served by the glass (from €4.50 to €5.50), there’s a fine, very dry Alsace Pinot gris from the Domaine Bott-Geyl or a stunning biodynamic Loire Cabernet from the Vaillants that’s smooth and overripe. For everything else, try a Grignan-les-Adhémar rosé from the Domaine de Grangeneuve (€20 a bottle), a Roussette-de-Savoie from Jacques Maillet, or a Coteaux-du-Loir from the Domaine de la Roche Bleue, etc.
PRICE: Set menu €20 (lunch), plates and platters from €7.95 to €19.95.