After 11 years working as a pastry chef for Michel Bras, the discreet Henry-Luc Dauvergne opened his own place in the center of Laguiole. Inside this lovely bistro with exposed Auvergne stone walls, the spirited Brenda lights up the dining room with her Argentinian accent (hence the name “LA BA” for “Laguiole Buenos Aires”), all while popping open her latest Bacchic finds to go with the heartening €19 menu made by her Che. To start, perfect symbiosis between the tasty pork trotter, potato and yam parmentier, and the Terres Blanches wine produced by the Domaine du Mioula in the Aveyron (€4.10 a glass, €20 a bottle); then a happy marriage between the excellent grilled Ségala veal with oriental semolina, almonds and raisins, and the very structured Languedoc red, L’Emotion, from Le Mas de l’Ecriture (€6 a glass, €31 a bottle). To finish, there are some delicious strawberries from Moissac, tucked into a whipped-cream-filled cream puff. Set menu €13-19 (+€3 with cheese, +€13 with food and wine pairings). There are also four bedrooms upstairs at €59 a night, with a picnic basket for €13. // P.L.