Inside Agnès Tête-Laurent’s (daughter of the iconic Michèle Aubéry who runs the Gramenon vineyard in the Drôme) den-like bistro, the timid décor (light wood tables, graying walls) fades away as soon as the formidable plates make their way out onto the table. The other day at lunch, the €22 menu included: juicy beef steak tomatoes with a spritely vinaigrette and creamy burrata; spicy Norway salmon ceviche in a marinade combining lemon, lime, cilantro, scallions, cider vinegar and olive oil, served with a bowl of roasted new potatoes and carrots; before an apricot crumble made using raw, stewed and preserved fruit. At night, the plates get even more powerful and the prices rise: marinated beef salad, homemade foie gras terrine, whiting and vegetable aioli, Iberian pluma of pork with a pepper condiment… // O.J.
FEELING THIRSTY? Only good things, most of which are natural: a surprising Duché-d’Uzès rosé from Les Vignes de l’Arque (€4 a glass), an excellent Bourgogne-Aligoté from Alice and Olivier De Moor (€7) or a fine local red from the Domaine des Rutissons (€5)… Not to mention the dozens of references from the Domaine Gramenon – it’s also possible to buy wines from Gramenon & Compagnie, the wine/fine foods shop that opened in April 2019 at 15 bis, rue Lakanal.
PRICE: Dish of the day €14, menus €18-22 (lunch) and €35, à la carte €32-45 (dinner).