Le Guide Fooding’s Biggest Crush of 2016
Colorful chairs, a big table d’hôte, tattooed and bearded chefs… Behind its couldn’t-care-less hipster look, Lyon’s most bipolar address holds its cards close to its chest… Pretty as a picture at lunch with its steamer baskets and dim sum menus, La Bijouterie lays on the swagger at night, when chefs Arnaud Laverdin and Thomas Pezeril do things their way behind the bar. And wow, the eight-course menu (€43) sure fries, flame-chars, and barbecues everything in sight! The night we went: a breaded oyster with a poppy jelly (the buds had been macerated in vinegar for a year!); cream of avocado, ground ivy pesto and a wasabi-miso-dried bonito crumble; flash-seared red squid bagna cauda with cashews, kimchi-style daikon radish and… fennel fermentation water (gasp!); rabbit saddle, mandolined chioggia beets, ketchup, beetroot powder and a kohlrabi salad; grilled green asparagus, wild garlic blossoms, a delicious corn-based sauce, scallop coral and mullet roe (woah!); slow-cooked free-range chicken suprême marinated with ginger, kalamansi and orange juice vinegar, paired with smoked eel and a thunderous carrot and tahini purée; and to finish, a nice little chilled praline cream, before a refreshing lovage sorbet made by the pastry chef Rémy Havetz. And to go with all that, Matteo has what you need: Point Cardinaux Métiss, a white Alsace from Bott-Geyl (€5.50 a glass), a taut Aligoté from Nicolas Maillet (€51 a bottle), Loï, a Côtes-du-Rhône red from the Domaine Saladin (€28), etc. Set menu options €16-20 (weekday lunch), €20-25 (Saturday lunch and holidays), tasting menu €46 (dinner, +€15 for food and wine pairings). // D.C.