Le Guide Fooding’s Biggest Crush of 2016
Chef Arnaud Laverdin’s gems are well protected by Thomas Pezeril inside this den of Lyonnais cool that combines unfinished walls, suspension lamps and a hot-room kitchen. The night we went, the crème de la crème paraded out in eight courses: a delicate duck breast carpaccio with kombucha-verbena jelly and Charentais melon balls; excellent seasonal vegetables steamed with herbs (mint, dill) and moistened by a light sumac hollandaise sauce; stunning barbecued duck hearts with a fermented pepper jus, olives, feta and fresh mint; graceful Chinese eggplant and dehydrated tomatoes in a black garlic consommé; precious pieces of lobster bobbing cozily in a smoked tea broth paired with cherries; a couture dish mixing chicken liver mousse, a raw egg, kimchi and pointy cabbage; burrata with a watermelon and lovage brunoise for a touch of freshness; before a more forgettable dessert of fresh raspberries with potatoes and fennel, corrupted by a spellbinding licorice powder. There’s a set menu at lunch with delightful small bites (shrimp-kaffir lime dim sum, panisses with mackerel and raw cream, gnudi with ricotta, mushroom gyoza…). // G.LeP.
FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wine, of course! A Beaujolais villages vieilles vignes from Lapalu (€5.50 a glass); Ageno, an Italian orange wine from La Stoppa (€70 a bottle); or a Savoyard Jacquère from Jean-Yves Péron (€64), etc.
PRICE: Menus €20-26 (lunch), €27 (Saturday lunch) and €57 (dinner).