Unfinished walls, golden wallpaper, Edison light bulbs and an open kitchen… The cool bijouterie (or jewelry box) owned by Arnaud Laverdin (who also runs Sapnà) is still shining bright like a diamond! The night we went, chef Thomas Pezeril’s menu featured five flamboyant courses: incredible raw Mediterranean shrimp swimming in a fermented green tomato water, with crispy shrimp head tempura and a siphoned rouille; a lovely lamb tartare with black seaweed and sea lettuce, puffed quinoa and a fermented pepper jus; an incredible artichoke duo (prepared as both an emulsion and a purée), with a chervil and chive salad, beautifully golden halloumi and enoki mushrooms; a sublime burrata ice cream with green tomatoes and an unusual olive oil gelée; before a completely insane dessert featuring pickled blueberries, blueberry sorbet and a blueberry tuile, covered in a comforting caramel sauce and sprinkled with a chicken skin nougatine and tuile! FYI: the lunch options are just as precious: eg.: duck karaage with Japanese mayo and harissa; fried wontons with smoked herring and kimchi… Yum! // G.V.
FEELING THIRSTY? A naturalist wine selection: a Saint-Péray from the Domaine de Lorient (€7.50 a glass), a pet’ nat’ from Giachino (€37 a bottle), a red Occhipinti Cuvée SP68 (€48), a Jura Savagnin-Ouillé from Philippe Bornard (€65)…
PRICE: Menus €22-28 (weekday lunch), €47 (dinner and Saturday lunch).