Le Guide Fooding’s Biggest Crush of 2016
You can do more than just look inside this jewelry shop! The buccaneering Arnaud Laverdin’s (ex-Christian Têtedoie) carefully busted up lair serves edible Nippon-esque gemstones that pack a lot of flavor. The other day at lunch, an exuberant pea velouté topped with wild garlic caressed our tongue before the precious unveiling of the Trois Bijoux tasting menu for €20: vegetarian dim sum with daikon radish, peanuts and ponzu; gleaming mushroom-okonomiyaki-gyoza; golden lacquered chicken wings with fennel and a kalamansi jus; and to the end of the show, Rémy Havetz uses his alchemy to produce a chocolate cream-frozen yogurt sprinkled with pumpkin seeds (+€5). Indulge a little more by selecting one of Matteo Bonatto’s precious finds: a white Cairanne from Marcel Richaud (€39 a bottle) or an Alsace red from the Domaine Rieflé (€5.50 a glass). At night? The €55 tasting menu is the Crown Jewels: mussels marinière with a sauce poulette and Noilly Prat reduction, plus pickled kohlrabi served cold; free-range pigeon breast cooked at a low temperature and then finished on the barbecue, with a corn cream, a malt nougatine and a pigeon and mole reduction; raspberries, raspberry jelly, cucumber in vinegar, cucumber water, toasted white chocolate and sorbet infused with boldo (bay leaf from Chili)… Set menus €16-20 (weekday lunch), €20-25 (Saturday lunch), menu €55 (dinner). // N.K.