La Boîte à Sardine
Nautical ropes, yellow fisherman raincoats, majestic seafood…. The years go by but La Boîte à Sardine from admiral Fabien Rugi stays the course! The reason for its success? The owner’s cheeky humor, of course, but also the small, well-balanced seafood dishes. The proof could be found on the plates, the day we went for lunch: carefully prepared razor clams from Sète with fresh cilantro and lemon (€15); or palourde clams prepared in the same way (€18), both served with excellent panisse. And for purists, there are some unmissable Marennes-Oléron oysters (€11 for six) and good, plump Madagascar shrimp with homemade aioli dipping sauce (€10). Follow it all with a juicy fiadone (€5) or some excellent artisanal almond-orange blossom sorbet from Emki Pop in Marseille (€4.50). And to wash it all down, there’s an organic white from Château Roubine served by the glass (€5.50), or a natural Minervois from Le Clos du Gravillas (€32 a bottle). À la carte from €19.50 to €30. // G.LeP.