La Boîte à Sardine
The years seem to glide over this Boîte à Sardine like sea foam over a rock, as the filibuster Fabien Rugi and his loyal chef Céline Bonnieu hold the course. Surrounded by buoys and vintage sardine tins, the passengers of the day brace themselves for waves of local freshness: a marvelous monkfish tartare with mayonnaise, fennel and cilantro; a ragu-like cuttlefish pasta; naturalist rock mullet, soberly served with light panisses and roasted zucchini… The only exceptions to this sea pact are the fresh fruit popsicles from Emki Pop (€4.50) or the creamy fiadone (a Corsican flan) for an earthy finish. // N.K.
FEELING THIRSTY? Blanc Public, a biodynamic Var white from the Domaine de la Réaltière (€30 a bottle) or a more indigenous Cassis from the Domaine des Quatre vents (€20 for 500 ml), unless you’d rather some bubbles, like a Bière des Gardians made with Camargue rice.
PRICE: Plates €13-18.