This big turn-of-the-century café (an isosceles triangle shaped dining room, off-white walls, Eames armchairs, a terrace on the boulevard) is locavore to its core! The day we went for lunch, 34-year-old chef proprietor Ardèche terroir-ist Florian Descours (ex-Pic in Valence, Le Vallon de Valrugues in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence) took aim at our hearts with his selection of amuse bouches (pastrami and goat cheese, calf brains and cream of garlic, figatellu and homemade ham, cream of pea shells), before emptying his local organic cartridges on the €34 menu: a harmonious, sweet zucchini stuffed with sheep’s milk tomme from the Ferme Bobon; cochon noir coppa and matured olive oils from Payzac; incredibly tender lamb from Le Coiron slow-cooked for 36 hours, which resisted the bitterness of a turmeric cream and was refreshed by a fennel mousseline and lemon jelly; before a rhubarb crumble with strawberry sorbet, a red berry syrup and pea mousseline. And for all those with insatiable appetites, there’s an orgasmic platter of cheeses from Ardèche and elsewhere (€11). At night, there’s a seven-course menu for €44 or a nine-course one for €60. And to drink, the wine selection is up to par: a fine Saint-Péray from the Domaine de la Sarbèche (€8 a glass), a complex Crozes-Hermitage from Christelle Betton (€8), a white white from the Domaine des Côtes Rousses (€26 a bottle), or Reviens Gamay from Sylvain Bock in the Ardèche (€27). Set menus €15-19 (weekday lunch), €34-60 (food and wine pairings €18-52), kids €15-21. // G.D.