Le Guide Fooding’s Best cave à manger of 2014
After working at Le Chateaubriand and Le Dauphin, Camille Fourmont took her first solo steps in the gastronomical universe at this tiny crèmerie, which she gracefully converted into a first-rate cave à manger almost four years ago. Assembling her star plates in between uncorking bottles of wine, the talented former-future-architect puts a rock ’n’ roll spin on the genre: carefully selected charcuterie (andouille with bacon, Auvergne saucisson with blueberries…); flavorful white beans with lemon zest; tantalizing burrata sprinkled with raspberries and drizzled in olive oil from Cédric Cassanova; and a perfect duo of goat cheese and fresh figs. So many treats meant to be shared standing up, at the bar, with your tattooed neighbors, or for a few early birds, seated at one of the three bistro tables. And to fill the glasses, there’s almost too many good things to choose from: an organic Corsican red from Muriel Giudicelli (€5 a glass), a subtle white from the Domaine Mosse (€5), an intense red from Sologne by Claude Courtois (€24 a bottle) or a La Petite Pigalle beer (€6) in case there’s a heatwave. Corkage €8. Plates €6-11. // N.K.