Le Guide Fooding’s Best cave à manger of 2014
Thirtysomething Camille Fourmont (ex-Chateaubriand and Le Dauphin) reigns with a delicate touch over her little kingdom decked out with white tiles and magnetic zinc. It’s the ideal spot for chewing the fat with the best of free-spirited wines. Take this captivating Gamay from Laurent Saillard in the Loire (€5 a glass), this sulfurous Syrah from Jean Delobre that wins the game of Rhônes (€5.50), these Irancy wines from Nicolas Vauthier (€35 a bottle) or even the La Petite Pigalle beer from the Brasserie de la Goutte d’Or (€6). Pair them, between two jokes, with small plates that are held in high esteem: eggs with rice vinegar and dried bonito flakes (€3); opulent pistachio terrine by Rodolphe Paquin with pickled cherries (€10); her famous white beans with lemon zest (€6.50); or a coquettish burrata all dolled up with raspberry powder (€9), scooped up with good bread from Thierry Breton. Corkage €8. // A.A.