Le Guide Fooding’s Best cave à manger of 2014
Behind the windowed façade with a cursive neon sign, you’ll find Camille Fourmont’s (ex-Dauphin and Chateaubriand) wine-heavy joint which is about the size of sardine tin. The tiny space has a timeless little bar and three or four vintage tables, so you’ll have to stand or sit shoulder-to-shoulder with the other in-the-know epicureans, sipping natural wines and nibbling on nice terroir-rich snacks. The night we went, we delved into the suggestions written out on a spotted mirror: a sensational dried fruit and chicken liver terrine from Rodolphe Paquin, spread on good bread from Thierry Breton; smoked haddock looking lovely in yellow and cleverly paired with fresh pear and yuzu caviar; a generous burrata made up with powdered mandarine peel; and lusty andouille with bacon. // T.V.X.
FEELING THIRSTY? Simply incredible wines: an Ardèche red from Jean Delobre (€6.50 a glass), an Apulian orange wine from Progetto Calcarius (€7), a Loire white from Laurent Saillard (€33.50 a bottle), a Côte-de-Brouilly from Pierre Cotton (€45)… It’s worth mentioning that all of the wines can also be taken to go.
PRICE: Plates €3-12.