From inside their bucolic cabana located along the Loire River (rustic interiors, garden furniture, incredible views), Romain Gadais and his freshwater sailors grapple with the best fish from their beloved river (mullet, catfish, asp, bream…). A quick Wikipedia search will help you identify all the curious beasts featured on the menu, enthusiastically cooked up fresh by chef Ambroise Voreux alongside the day’s offering of vegetables. For us, the day we went for lunch: marinated bream atop a blini, energized by an apple-ginger jelly, a few hazelnuts and an herby espuma; crispy asp tempura and a tomato tartare with a lemony cream; a beautiful and delicately glazed catfish steak paired with a potato emulsion, sautéed shiitake mushrooms and shiso from the garden; before a “Beaver tail,” a crispy brioche served with verbena ice cream and a fromage blanc mousse. // A.A.
FEELING THIRSTY? Organic Loire wines – a Melon vendanges nocturnes from the Domaine de La Combe (the owner’s brother) at €5 a glass, an amphora-aged Chenin from Le Sot de l’Ange at €40 a bottle… or a good local beer from the Brasserie La P’tite Maiz’ (€3.50 for 250 ml).
PRICE: À la carte €34-40, menu €50 (food and wine pairings +€15).