With his finger on the trigger, the seasons make Tim Rémi’s La Cagette sing. This white café (pine wood tables, school chairs, an open kitchen and a terrace when the sky is willing) serves cuisine that reflects the weather. The garden is served up in poetic recital of greenery onds the menu of the day. For us: juicy, crisp asparagus from Le Blayais under an orange mousseline to get your appetite going (€9); tasty beef and veal meatloaf wrapped in crispy bacon, with mashed potatoes, roasted carrots and a rich jus (€14); creamy clam linguine with spinach and Parmesan (€14); and blueberry cheesecake for dessert (€6). Without a doubt, it’s one of the best spots in Bordeaux, which you can celebrate by drinking local: a Bordeaux white from the Château Franc-Baudron (€4 a glass), a Beaujolais white from the Domaine Saint Cyr (€28 a bottle), or a Haut-Médoc cru bourgeois from the Château Meyre (€28). Set menu €16 (lunch), mezze €12-22 (dinner), brunch €20 (Sunday), à la carte €25-27. // M.J.-D.