And he’s back for a third time! After the ministerial restaurants Laiterie Sainte-Clotilde and Le Petit Varenne, Jean-Baptiste Varenne is continuing his invasion of the 7th arrondissement with this lovely, well-dressed bistro (an emerald green marble bar, rattan chairs, taupe velvet banquettes). The last time we went, the lunch menu was already (practically) perfect: a Chirac-esque smoked mackerel salad with Greek yogurt, hidden under a mountain of coleslaw; tender hanger steak with a bright chimichurri, perfectly paired with mashed sweet potatoes – or free-range chicken thigh with green cabbage, bathed unfortunately in a rather bland smoked tea broth; before a comforting apple-pear compote embellished with homemade granola. At night, the mouthwatering plates served à la carte make their way onto the scene: free-range pork loin slow roasted in milk and sage with a celery purée; flash-seared cod with pencil leeks and a seaweed tartare, etc. // G.LeP.
FEELING THIRSTY? J.-B. has you covered: a Côtes-du-Rhône white from Nicolas Croze (€6.50 a glass), a Givry red from Michel Sarrazin (€55 a bottle), a Saumur white from the Château de Fosse-Sèche (€68)…
PRICE: Set menus €26-32 (weekday lunch), à la carte €36-47.
