La Calèche

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And he’s back for a third time! After the ministerial restaurants Laiterie Sainte-Clotilde and Le Petit Varenne, Jean-Baptiste Varenne is continuing his invasion of the 7th arrondissement with this lovely, well-dressed bistro (an emerald green marble bar, rattan chairs, taupe velvet banquettes). The last time we went, the lunch menu was already (practically) perfect: a Chirac-esque smoked mackerel salad with Greek yogurt, hidden under a mountain of coleslaw; tender hanger steak with a bright chimichurri, perfectly paired with mashed sweet potatoes – or free-range chicken thigh with green cabbage, bathed unfortunately in a rather bland smoked tea broth; before a comforting apple-pear compote embellished with homemade granola. At night, the mouthwatering plates served à la carte make their way onto the scene: free-range pork loin slow roasted in milk and sage with a celery purée; flash-seared cod with pencil leeks and a seaweed tartare, etc. // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? J.-B. has you covered: a Côtes-du-Rhône white from Nicolas Croze (€6.50 a glass), a Givry red from Michel Sarrazin (€55 a bottle), a Saumur white from the Château de Fosse-Sèche (€68)…

PRICE: Set menus €26-32 (weekday lunch), à la carte €36-47.

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

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