La Cantine du Troquet Cherche-Midi

La Cantine du Troquet Cherche-Midi (Paris)

© Christine Doublet

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With its classic chic bistro feel (rough stone walls, comfortable banquettes, a wooden bar, a Left Bank crowd), Christian Etchebest’s fourth Cantine is without a doubt the most serious of the lot. With the exception of a rugby jersey hanging on the wall behind the bar and the discreet bundles of Espelette peppers, the cuisine is the only other thing that reminds you who’s boss here! For us, the night we went, we nibbled on some of the house classics cooked to perfection by Benjamin Arnaboldi: some fine plancha-grilled razor clams with a heady black olive vinaigrette; irreproachable Ibaiama pork chops from Ospital, dressed in a hazy smoked jus emulsion and served with good homemade fries that were crispy and golden; before an impeccable rice pudding with dulce de leche and flecks of vanilla. // D.C.

FEELING THIRSTY? There are wines with minimal sulfites chosen by Nathalie Camberlin: a Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine from Jo Landron (€6.50 a bottle), a Pic-Saint-Loup red from Le Clos Marie (€8), a Côtes-Catalanes gris from the Domaine Salveterre (€34 a bottle), a Var red from the Domaine Ray-Jane (€27)…

PRICE: À la carte €32-46.

Late-night munchies?

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