La Cave à Michel
Don’t look for Romain Tischenko in Le Galopin’s kitchens, because the wild child with tousled locks has slipped next door to the narrow wine bar, working behind a shiny zinc bar lit by golden bulbs. The other night, his friend Allan Gillery (Blue Valentine) lent him a hand in the kitchen, sending out a suite of little wonders: an old-fashioned deviled egg (€2); fabulous herring sweetened by summer tomatoes and fennel seeds under a lace-like layer of shiso (€8); vivifying Galician beef tataki with piquillo peppers and anchoïade; or even a turbot ceviche with sea beans and cherries (€10). Dishes mischievously stitched together by hand are complemented beautifully by some cheeky wines: a vibrant vinho verde from Aphros Loureiro and a very drinkable organic IX Miglio from the Riserva della Cascina (€6 a glass), or a lively Gamay Foliard from Nicolas Dubost (€30 a bottle), perfect for flirting with their chocolate ganache drizzled with olive oil at dessert (€7). Plates €4-10. // N.K.