La Cave à Michel
After spearheading the bistronomy movement in the 2010s, the Tischenko brothers (Romain, ex-Ze Kitchen Galerie and Maxime, ex-Chateaubriand) continue to light up Parisian palates with big strokes of natural wine and punchy plates at this tiny annex, located next-door to their restaurant Le Galopin. Inside their capsule kitchen lined with red bricks and tiles, the winner of the first season of Top Chef France (Romain) sent out some serious flavor bombs the night we went: delicate mackerel fillets with kimchi, lemon caviar, fresh cilantro and spicy Padrón peppers; incredibly sweet Datterino tomatoes that were flash-seared and then moistened by an excellent olive oil from Profil Grec; steak and herring tartare mellowed out by the richness of raw cream; before death by chocolate via a chocolate ganache with fresh figs, all intensified by flaky salt and a drizzle of olive oil. // G.LeP.
FEELING THIRSTY? Explore the most natural wine list imaginable: a magnificent Morgon from Georges Descombes (€6 a glass), a highly drinkable Côtes-du-Jura red from the Domaine des Marnes Blanches (€42 a bottle)… chosen from over 150 references lined up on the shelves, from Reau and Bobinet to Viret, etc.
PRICE: Plates €2-12.