La Cave se rebiffe

A shopkeeper during the week, Benjamin Delage dons a bartender’s apron on the weekends and lets loose. In his pretty cave à manger (wallpaper with birds and flowers, industrial suspension lamps, former SNCF luggage, a massive table and a long bar), he pampers his guests with fine wines taken from his personal collection (5,000 bottles). Amongst which, highlighted on the big black board menu, you’ll notice an Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune from Chapuis, an Arbois Pamina from L’Octavin, a Beaujolais from Champier, a Roussillon Kashmir from La Nouvelle Donne…. And on the smaller blackboard menu, there’s a handful of devilish snacks: burrata drizzled in olive oil and taggiasche olives; a plate of Serrano ham, sliced on the superb Berkel; along with coppa, saucisson, tinned Galician seafood (mussels à l’escabèche or sardinillas), cheeses from Porcheret in Dijon, and, as always, one hot dish of the day (couscous, saucisson baked into brioche from La Petite Louisette in the covered market…), served with a bowl of salad. Glasses of wine from €4 to €7, bottles starting at €19. Plates €7-15, dish of the day €12.50. // J.G.