La Chope has just gotten a makeover! Not in terms of its actual style, because the Théâtre du Splendid’s bistro still dazzles thanks to its patina from 1876 (dark wooden paneling, pearly chandeliers, velvet curtains) and photographs of the legendary theater troupe that set up camp here in the 80s… As for the ambiance, it’s been updated in keeping with the times by Ramy Ndione (a former concept store owner) and his spirited team. The crowd? Young artsy folks who come share the groovy plates (which still have some kinks to work out) made by the twenty-something chef Diadié Diombana (ex-Buffet), aka Freddy’s Kitchen. Served à la carte the other night: an impeccable runny fried egg sprinkled with za’atar atop a plate full of romaine salad with vinaigrette; flashy smoked eggplant with pesto rosso, walnuts and pickled red onion; a cheeky tuna sashimi under a heap of cherries and marinated mandolined fennel; a good rib-eye steak with fries to keep the old-timers from freaking out; before a plump brioche French toast served with hibiscus poached pear. // A.A.
FEELING THIRSTY? Beautiful natural wines: a Languedoc red from Rémi Poujol (€6 a glass), a Greek Muscat from Bouju and Ligas (€26 a bottle), a Sicilian rosé from Franck Cornelissen (€32)…
PRICE: Plates €5-20.
