After impressing Metz’s in-crowd with his Derrière, the fantastic Julien Longhi has opened up another spot, La Cigale, an old faubourgeois bistro that’s been given a kitsch makeover (an electric blue ceiling, a disco ball, an old-fashioned mirror, a neo-Michelangelo-style mural…). Who’s in the kitchen? His mother-in-law, an Abruzzo-native who puts a sublime twist on everyday cooking with her transalpine touch: polpette, veal tartare with mango and cilantro, pasta à la ventricana with cabbage, baked polenta with gorgonzola, strawberry tiramisu…. On the weekends, it’s all about the tantalizing tapas: a masterful piadina – a pizzetta that’s typical of the Adriatic Coast, topped here with red kuri squash purée and pancetta; a sexy tramazzina, a sandwich made with bruschetta and filled with tuna, apricot jam, chili and arugula. Other options include pasta with sausage and fennel; tomato risotto with pancetta; a baked egg with coppa, mozzarella and arugula; a classic tiramisu…. // R.deC.
FEELING THIRSTY? Their Italian wines knock it out of the park: Chianti served by the glass (€5), a Sicilian red from La Tenuta Rapitala (€35 a bottle), an Apulia Chardonnay from Castello Monaci (€30)…
PRICE: À la carte €20-35, tapas €9-11 (Thursday and Friday evening).
