Seated around the crimson bar or in the dining room with wooden walls and small tables that are perfect for when you feel like sitting shoulder-to-shoulder with the other guests, zealots of natural wine wax poetic about its merits, almost always to a sold-out crowd. Taking on everything from the practical work to the chit-chat, Emeric and Cécile heat up the corkscrew and the meat slicer. The night we went: a hearty plate of beef cecina and piquillo peppers, perfect Mayenne-style rillettes from Jean-Rémy Cousin, and a deliciously fruity Comté from Marcel Petit in the high Doubs. // D.C.
FEELING THIRSTY? You’ve hit the jackpot here, with 500 wines d’auteur, including the finest Angevine wines (Bretaudeau, Landron, Jousset, Caslot), and stars from elsewhere (vintages from Ganevat or Labet in the Jura), not to mention a few new discoveries: Franc de Pied, an Anjou white 2012 from Philippe Delesvaux (€54 a bottle), a Coteaux-du-Grésivaudan from Thomas Finot (€35), etc. Served by the glass: Silex, a Sancerre from the Domaine Delaporte (€7.80), Busardières, a 2010 Bourgueil from the Domaine de la Chevalerie (€7.50).
PRICE: Plates €6-18.