After a gentle introduction to the city of rosé, Natalia Crozon and Marie Lézouret (ex-Baratin in Paris) are bringing some joyful and mischievous energy to this 17th-century silk mill which was once categorized as a “weddings-and-banquets” spot for years. The decorum? An abbey-like space with a sculpted wood door, arched ceilings with rafters and the scent of Spanish wax, plus a very beautiful garden with shade from a 400-year-old cedar tree. The food? It’s unembellished, with a Belleville twist, like the set lunch menu for 18 bucks: cushy homemade country terrine (pork throat and liver, veal rump) with salad and pickled shallots; roasted quail with fennel, valiant mashed potatoes with grapes; before a thunderous cherry clafoutis with thick cream. At night, the menu gets a little more rustic: glorious pigeon and foie gras dim sum in an organic vegetable broth; Mediterranean bonito crudo with raspberries and smoked vinegar from Issé; divinely fatty veal ribs with creamy new potatoes in a mushroom jus; or roasted figs with Sicilian pistachio ice cream. To drink, there’s almost the entire collection of Tavel wines from L’Anglore (Terre d’Ombre, Rocher d’Amande or Vintage, from €26 to €42), plus wines from friends: a Côtes-du-Rhône red from the Domaine Gramemon (€4 a glass), a Côtes-Catalanes white from the Domaine de Majas (€20 a bottle) or a Corbières Rozeta from Maxime Magnon (€29). Set menu €18 (lunch), à la carte €30-40 (dinner). // D.N.