restaurant

La Crèmerie

La Crèmerie (Paris)

© Arthur Chassaing

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With Tsuyoshi Yamakawa (ex-Saturne) and Giuseppe Craparotta (ex-Il Fico) in the kitchen, this former dairy shop turned cave à manger (a marble bar, bistro tables) has really gotten its groove back. Seated under the breathtaking ceiling from 1880, the day we went for lunch we enjoyed: a luxurious plate of roasted seasonal vegetables (puntarella, broccoli, cime di rapa, leeks, peas); thin slices of cuttlefish the color of porcelain, lightly seared and served with a moussey eggplant caviar and asparagus; reinvigorating veal tartare on good terms with an herby pesto made with dill, wild garlic and parsley; and for the sunny finale, a lemon parfait with rhubarb compote and almond-olive oil granita. It’s worth noting that the duo also serves themed menus at lunch – meat, fish or vegetarian. // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? David Lanher always has what you need: a lively Aligoté from Claide Naudin (€8 a glass), a Serbian Pinot noir, Obecanje (€24 a bottle), a sparkling Dolomite wine from Cantina Furlani (€24)… (Corkage fee €10).

PRICE: Prix-fixe menus €24-27 (lunch), plates €9-16.

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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