With Tsuyoshi Yamakawa (ex-Saturne) and Giuseppe Craparotta (ex-Il Fico) in the kitchen, this former dairy shop turned cave à manger (a marble bar, bistro tables) has really gotten its groove back. Seated under the breathtaking ceiling from 1880, the day we went for lunch we enjoyed: a luxurious plate of roasted seasonal vegetables (puntarella, broccoli, cime di rapa, leeks, peas); thin slices of cuttlefish the color of porcelain, lightly seared and served with a moussey eggplant caviar and asparagus; reinvigorating veal tartare on good terms with an herby pesto made with dill, wild garlic and parsley; and for the sunny finale, a lemon parfait with rhubarb compote and almond-olive oil granita. It’s worth noting that the duo also serves themed menus at lunch – meat, fish or vegetarian. // A.A.
FEELING THIRSTY? David Lanher always has what you need: a lively Aligoté from Claide Naudin (€8 a glass), a Serbian Pinot noir, Obecanje (€24 a bottle), a sparkling Dolomite wine from Cantina Furlani (€24)… (Corkage fee €10).
PRICE: Prix-fixe menus €24-27 (lunch), plates €9-16.