After pampering Parisian bellies at Les Arlots, then Marseille appetites at La Relève and L’Inclassable, Laëtitia Visse fell in love with this former butcher’s shop right near Place Castellane. The fruit of this union? Around 60 covers spread over two separate spaces, with nods to its butchering past carefully preserved (red and white tiling), an open kitchen and a verdant patio. The other day at lunch, we rediscovered her culinary touch on the menu with huge portions: impeccable oeufs mayonnaise topped with smoked herring and pickled onions; comforting veal’s head with sauce gribiche, pan-fried chanterelles, new potatoes and pencil leeks – or stuffed cabbage with roasted carrots and a rich jus de viande; before an incredible chocolate lava cake served with mint sorbet. At night, the young chef sharpens her knives a little more: duck terrine, foie gras infused with whiskey, homemade sausage, dry-aged Hereford rib-eye steak…. // G.LeP.
FEELING THIRSTY? Around 15 natural, southern wines to choose from: a Provence red from the Château Revelette (€7 a glass), an Hérault white from Le Vin des Potes (€26 a bottle), a Catalan orange from Vega Aixalà (€39)….
PRICE: Menu €20-23 (lunch), à la carte €28-51 (dinner).