In his cute, little, luminous corbelled spot (coral walls, teal chairs, exposed stone walls), Maxime D’Orio (ex-Park Hyatt and Marcon) sticks close to both the terroir and the seasons. He routinely whips up flawless dishes for 15 lucky guests (and a few more seated on the terrace). The proof from the day we went, on the incredible €42 menu: smoked anchovies from the Basque Country in a colorful tableau of wild watercress, broccoli and cauliflower, all intensified by a tangy sheep’s milk yogurt: Atlantic bonito caught fresh that morning, sparkling with freshness and subtle flavors, garnished with a springtime composition of romanesco, greens, celery root and broccoli, plus beetroot in a mango vinaigrette; before a perfectly local finale of a superb lemon tartelette with a bermagote maremlade and meringue. The choice of wines by the glass is limited (Correns in three colors for €5), but there are plenty by the bottle: Cairanne from Richaud (€38), Bandol rosé from the Domaine de Terrebrune (€45), etc. Menus €42-65. // G.D.