A hotbed of culinary insurrection in the Brotteaux neighborhood? In any case, a mutiny is on the horizon at La Mutinerie, led by Nicolas Seibold (a former chef for Pic, Alleno and Têtedoie), who has finally freed himself from the classic gastronomic course! Inside his new headquarters designed by the Collectif Saône agency (Johansson chairs, lush foliage, concrete rebar, orange tables and floors…), he’s out to conquer the bourgeois palettes of Lyon’s 6th arrondissement. And he’s doing it with a certain amount of panache! Take the €36 menu from the night we went as an example: Arctic char gravlax with bitter notes of grapefruit and a fennel mousse; titillating beef heart tartare, cooked sous-vide with mirin and soy sauce, and served with a smoked eel mousse and crumble, barbecue-charred asparagus and a chilled horseradish cream; veal chuck, all dolled up two ways – shredded and as a medallion, plus a shoulder cut crépinette, a verjus-infused sauce, and pickled and puréed turnips; and a brutalist whole-roasted Anjou pigeon, the breast meat rare and the heart sautéed, a reduction, a blackberry jelly, black rice polenta and mustard seeds. Before the final peace treaty: strawberry sorbet with siphoned yogurt, hibiscus syrup and a meringue shell broken up by a handful of strawberries and rhubarb! There’s plenty of fun to be had ransacking the wine collection as well: a sweet Rully Chaponnière from Erell Ninot (€8.50 a glass), a loud Cave Vinum from the Mas du Libian (€6), Monfarina from the Domaine Giachino (€28 a bottle), a Languedoc red from Les Terrasses D’Elise (€47), etc. Menus: €26 (lunch except Saturdays), €36 and €48. A.S.