La Mutinerie

La Mutinerie (Lyon)

© Nicolas Villon

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In Lyon’s somewhat humdrum 6th arrondissement, Nicolas Seibold (who trained at Têtedoie and under Pic) has been maintaining the insurrection for over two years now! With its unusual look (ochre walls, floors and tables, a brick counter, wild plants), his Mutinerie is waking up the neighborhood with dishes that are as precise as they are bold. The night we went, the surprise five-course menu (€60) featured: a sweet cauliflower cream with raw Albacore tuna, toasted hazelnuts, dashi jelly and fennel blossoms; very tender barbecued duck heart with sorrel, cucumber and Greek yogurt, all intensified by a powerful jus de viande whipped with butter; delicious Corsican meagre with celery purée and a fresh lemon balm emulsion; incredibly tender noir de Bigorre pork with roasted porcini mushrooms, braising juices and ground pine needles; before some good roasted Mirabelle plums in a Japanese green tea broth, served with a striking vanilla/Earl Grey ice cream, then a green parsley sorbet, with Mara des Bois strawberries, a delicate parsley jus and white chocolate whipped cream. // G.V.

FEELING THIRSTY? Organic and/or natural wines: a Côtes-du-Rhône white from Rémi Pouizin (€7.50 a glass), an Hérault red from Le Mas des Agrunelles (€38 a bottle), a Beaujolais-Villages white from the Château Thivin (€46)…

PRICE: Menus €30-45 (lunch), €60-86 (dinner and Saturday lunch).

Late-night munchies?

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