Best Portside bistro of 2017
It’s season 3 for the Nautique Club, and the newly remastered version by Carole Peyrichou (ex-Octopus in Béziers) is packed to the brim starting at apéro hour. And for good reason! With its beautiful dining room with lots of patina (wine crates, a Berkel slice, a windowed kitchen) and its festiveterrace along the Étang de Bages, this spot is perfect for heating things up with fried anchovies (or whelks with aioli) before diving into the more serious stuff. The blackboard menu has dishes sprinkled with a taste of the sea: delicate veal tongue in a tonnato sauce with lots of capers (€7); free-range rabbit liver and kidney skewers (€8); gigantic cod foie gras (€9); veal belly cooked for eight to 12 hours in orange and honey, made even more triumphant with whole carrots (€17); and to end the meal, an addictive chocolate mousse served from a salad bowl (€6). As for the wines, the region isn’t lacking in talent: a Corbières rosé from Le Clos Canos (€3 a glass), a Coume de Maliès white from the Domaine Balansa (€24 a bottle) and a pure Grenache from the Domaine Fond Cyprès (€27). Menu €15.50 (lunch except Sunday), oysters €22 for a dozen, à la carte €29-36. // D.N.