After being put on hold for a few months, La Palombe Gourmande has finally taken flight again under the direction of chef Jean Carbonne – ex-Maison Darroze (Langon) and Troisgros (Roanne). Its main assets? The young chef (just 22 years old!) and his skillfully prepared, first-rate cuisine. In a luminous space with stone walls and wooden rafters, the day we went for lunch the €32 menu included: excellent veal sweetbreads with walnuts, flash-seared oyster mushrooms and a rich black truffle jus; a delicious trio of pork from the Lalaque farm (tender filet mignon, juicy trotters, caramelized ears), with a Tarbes bean espuma and salsify in a pineapple jus; before a memorable dessert combining pink pomelo jelly and sorbet, some small gin baba cakes and a pistachio-white chocolate ganache. FYI, there’s also a mouthwatering menu of the day (eg.: a thin and crispy Madiran mushroom tart; wild boar and vegetable stew; a clementine/walnut/praline dessert) and a Sunday brunch – viennoiseries, cucumber salad, herring with potatoes, etc. // P.L.
FEELING THIRSTY? Local and organic wines: a Madiran from the Domaine Pichard (€6.50 a glass), a Bigorre white from Le Clos Basté (€20 a bottle), a Bergerac red from Le Clos Bonnefare (€35)… Otherwise, there’s Lebbe Bigourdane beer (€10 for 750 ml).
PRICE: Menus €15-20 (weekday lunch) and €30-55 (Saturday lunch and dinner), kids’ menu €12, à la carte €34-53.