La Petite Table
After traveling around the Middle East for years (Egypt, Qatar, etc.), Pyrenees-native David Boulouys, who trained under Passard and Ducasse, has cast off his moorings in the port of Capbreton. His new playground? The former Restaurant du Port, which has been given a cool bistro makeover with plenty of woodwork and lots of knick-knacks. Inside, he takes care of gourmet diners with brilliantly crafted fusion dishes. Served à la carte the day we went: a lovely Label Rouge Scottish salmon gravlax, blown up by a miso-yuzu-sumac mix, with tetragonia, black radish and cilantro on the side (€13); an excellent meagre fillet from the Capbreton fish market, steamed and whipped up with lime and piment d’Espelette, served with vegetables (salsify, buttery Brussels sprouts, Romanesco cabbage), all bathed in a shellfish, herb and Noilly Prat jus (€22); and to end the meal, a jubilatory chocolate feuillantine with praline mousse, milk chocolate cream, crispy lace-like cookies and caramelized hazelnuts (€8). Otherwise, for the lunch of the day (€17.90): œufparfait with celery bulb cream and a piquillo pepper jus; artisanal pasta with slow-cooked pork loin, tomatoes, basil and Parmesan; and a litchi-raspberry pavlova. The wines, on the other hand, are conventional: Jurançon Cauhapé, Chant des Vignes (€13 for a half-bottle), Médoc AOP Château le Pey (€19 for 750 ml), glasses for €3.50 to €4.50. Weekday lunch set menus €15.90-17.90. À la carte €40-46. // P.L.