La Pile d'Assiettes

La Pile d’Assiettes? Not only is it a geological curiosity located along the coast between Saint-Jean-de-Luz and Guéthary, with a rocky stratum that’s pleated like a Shar-Pei, but it’s also a new spot from David Sarfati and Constance Ronchain (ex-Kaïku). Working from a tiny kitchen, the latter sends out well-crafted bistro treats to a dining room decorated with antique furniture, mixing untreated wood tones and cushioned benches. Tested the night we went: a memorable French onion soup with garlicky toasts; a baked egg with oyster mushrooms and persillade; Roquefort and apple tart; vegetarian lasagna served with mixed greens and shiitake mushrooms; marvelous calf’s head from the Boucherie des Familles, with sauce gribiche and gratin dauphinois; before a caramelized banana cake for the ultra-tasty end to the meal. // P.L.

FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wines from the Authentika’v wine shop in Guéthary, served by the glass (from €3.50 to €6) and by the bottle: an Irouléguy rosé from Kattalingorri (€28) or Les Garrigues, an Aude red from Jean-Louis Denois (€32)… Otherwise, there’s organic tea from Maison Deuza in Saint-Jean-de-Luz (€3.50), Eki Basque beer (€3 for 330 ml) and freshly squeezed fruit juice (€3.50).

PRICE: Breakfast €6-8 (during the week), à la carte €23-32, brunch €18 (Saturday and Sunday).