Between the walls of this sophisticated bistro with a brick façade, an open kitchen, varnished wood tables and burgundy benches, chef Nicolas Bourget (ex-Petrossian) lets loose as he gently refines market produce making for fuss-free results. Tested and approved the night we went, chosen from 12 options of the day: a thin La Turballe mackerel tart which we gobbled up like candy (€10); meagre fillet from the same source, paired with seasoned vegetables and a creamy fish bone jus – sauced up with homemade country bread (€24); before a pistachio flan with apple-rhubarb sorbet (€8). The heavily organic wine list is full of good finds as well: Miss Terre, a VDF Muscadet from Marc Pesnot (€17 a bottle) or Les Glaneurs from the Domaine des Foulards Rouges in the south (€4.90 a glass). Set menus €19-29, à la carte €33-50 (dinner). // A.Be.