La Table du Marché
Stéphane Cuzin’s recipe for success? A smart bistro (a flamboyant façade, big bay windows, wooden paneling, couches…), an enviable location (right near Les Halles), carefully chosen ingredients and beautifully crafted dishes. The proof is in the €26 lunch menu: a good, organic soft-boiled egg with a herb mousseline, Reblochon cream sauce, Alba truffle oil and pea shoots; a remarkable, chunky, pearly-white filet of Atlantic cod with baked tomatoes, fried onions, shimeji mushrooms and a magic sauce (diced Morteau sausage, sherry vinegar, olive oil, jus de viande and ginger!), with a pea emulsion and tetragonia; and a basic but delicious Mangaro chocolate lava cake, with blackberry jam and organic vanilla ice cream. As for the wines, everything’s in order: a white Côtes-de-Duras Sainte Frivole from the Domaine Mauro Guicheney, Bergerac Rouge from the Clos le Joncal in 75 cl (€24) or Saint-Émillion from the Clos de l’Oratoire (€64). Glasses from €6.50 to €9.50. Set menu options €23-26 (weekdays at lunch), menus €35-54, kids €15, à la carte €47. // P.L.