La Table du Marché
Thanks to his privileged location with a terrace on the Place de Marché, Stéphane Cuzin would turn a profit no matter what he was serving at his bistro. But he cares about quality, and you only need to take a glance at the lively, seasonal dishes coming from his windowed kitchen to know that. The other night, in the tidy dining room (white tablecloths, slated wood on the walls, halogen lamps), on the €38 menu: a very fresh combination of octopus, sautéed green asparagus, crushed black olives, raw mushrooms and a carrot harissa; meagre fillet cooked over hay, crisp broad beans barely moistened by a fish broth with seaweed and tarragon; before a light cream, topped with whole strawberries, muscovado sugar feuillantine and strawberry-mint sorbet. A curious wine collection completes the offer, with wines from the region (Bergerac Clos des Verdots, €26), and elsewhere (Anjou blanc Domaine Ogereau, €6.50 a glass). Set menu and prix-fixe €23 and €26 (weekday lunch). Menus €38, €44 and €58, kids €15. // G.D.