La Telline

La Telline (Arles)

© La Telline

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For the past 28 years, Jean-Paul Sanchez, a former telline clam fisherman, has been pampering his loyal customers’ taste buds at his remote house deep in the Camargue region (tomette tile floors, exposed rafters, gingham tablecloths, a big fireplace, bullfighting posters…). The other evening, we dug into some furiously good telline clams topped with aioli; braised ox steak (which unfortunately was served without the jus) or a whole fish caught by his fisherman brother – a beautiful wolfish that weighed one kilo this time around, served with Camargue rice and eggplant cooked in tomato sauce; before a very chocolatey cake for dessert. FYI, the house doesn’t accept cards!

FEELING THIRSTY? Around 40 southern wines: a local rosé from La Mas de Valériole (€4.50 a glass), a Costières-de-Nîmes white from the Domaine Pastouret (€25 a bottle), a Crozes-Hermitage red from Les Graillot (€60)… and even a Châteauneuf-du-Pape produced by Château Rayas (€320).

PRICE: À la carte €54-61, catch of the day paid for by weight (€8.50 for 100 g).

Late-night munchies?

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2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


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