restaurant

La Traversée

La Traversée (Paris)

© Studio Frigo

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Take a bar, a restaurant and an apartment, knock down the walls and strip the floors, and you might end up with a sort of three-level speakeasy with two entrances, a terrace and a sandwich and cookie shop attached. Running this beautiful mess is Camille Rousseau, Witold Bertrand and Charles Neyes (a self-taught chef), formerly of École Hôtelière Vatel. They’re lighting up Montmartre evenings a dozen small plates at a time: gilt-head bream ceviche, Black Angus rib-eye, duck confit and green harissa croquettes… And at lunch? They’ve got a perfect menu: tuna marinated lightly in ponzu sauce and brightened by some wasabi mayonnaise and guacamole; a monstrous portion of tender grilled octopus on a bed of hearty hummus, tickled by preserved lemon and cilantro; before roasted apricots, juniper bud cream and homemade yogurt with toasted sesame seeds. // G.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? A little of everything: Déesse beer from Normandy (€3 for a half-pint), and Appie cider on tap (€3.50 for 250 ml), a beautiful selection of wines by the glass (Alsace Kumpf et Meyer – Y a plus qu’à, €7), plus a whole collection of bottles to explore: Cahors Pur Fruit du Causse from the Domaine Combel-La-Serre (€26 a bottle), a rare dry Jurançon from the Domaine de Souch (€36), etc.

PRICE: Menu €17-20 (lunch), tapas €9-17 (dinner).

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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