La Traversée

La Traversée (Paris)

© Studio Frigo

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Take a bar, a restaurant and an apartment, knock down the walls and strip the floors, and you might end up with a sort of three-level speakeasy with two entrances, a terrace and a sandwich and cookie shop attached. Running this beautiful mess is Camille Rousseau, Witold Bertrand and Charles Neyes (a self-taught chef), formerly of École Hôtelière Vatel. They’re lighting up Montmartre evenings a dozen small plates at a time: gilt-head bream ceviche, Black Angus rib-eye, duck confit and green harissa croquettes… And at lunch? They’ve got a perfect menu: tuna marinated lightly in ponzu sauce and brightened by some wasabi mayonnaise and guacamole; a monstrous portion of tender grilled octopus on a bed of hearty hummus, tickled by preserved lemon and cilantro; before roasted apricots, juniper bud cream and homemade yogurt with toasted sesame seeds. // G.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? A little of everything: Déesse beer from Normandy (€3 for a half-pint), and Appie cider on tap (€3.50 for 250 ml), a beautiful selection of wines by the glass (Alsace Kumpf et Meyer – Y a plus qu’à, €7), plus a whole collection of bottles to explore: Cahors Pur Fruit du Causse from the Domaine Combel-La-Serre (€26 a bottle), a rare dry Jurançon from the Domaine de Souch (€36), etc.

PRICE: Menu €17-20 (lunch), tapas €9-17 (dinner).

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2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


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