La Vierge

Holy Marian apparition! Greg Back, the party-boy owner of Le Café du Coin with Florent Ciccoli, has finally devoted himself to the Madonna by taking over the former Vierge de La Réunion. Inside this old-fashioned bistro (timeless tile floors, standard tables, a vinotheque, a varnished bar), the electric Elsa Marie (ex-Pères Populaire) and her magical husband, Australian chef Julian May (ex-Saint Eutrope), perform miracles in the kitchen every day, transforming your twenty-euro bill into a true feast! For us, the day we went: ricotta di bufala slashed every which way like a 3D Jackson Pollock with juicy mizuna, radicchio, mustard, watercress, pomegranate and a beetroot vinaigrette; virginal grilled hake enraptured by a bed of braised leek, lettuce hearts and an incredible beurre blanc à l’orange sauce; before a monochromatic Machiavellian dessert of poached pear and hazelnut ice cream. At night, there are shared bites, like pork head topped with salsa verde (€6); beautiful veal and pork caillette with chard and lentils (€17), etc. And to drink, the holy spirit fills the room: a white Pays-d’Oc from the Domaine Boissezon Guiraud (€3.50 a glass), a red Coteaux-du-Giennois from the Coste estate (€30 a bottle) or a Chenas from Bouchacourt (€38). Menu €20 (lunch), plates €5-17 (dinner). // M.J.-D.