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Laiterie Sainte Clotilde

Laiterie Sainte Clotilde (Paris)

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In a neighborhood with lots of government buildings, Jean-Baptiste Varenne’s Laiterie (who also owns Le Petit Varenne) is an oasis of authentic coolitude, where old légionnaires d’honneur and beautiful young people sit shoulder-to-shoulder. Hung up on the walls, the blackboard menus set the tone with bohemian-bistro cuisine, combining house classics (a gigantic steak with new potatoes, a runny Chardon chocolate cake) and progressive recipes. Just take our choice from the set menu the day we went for lunch: smoked herring with a tender potato salad, mint and a dill yogurt sauce; salmon that was still pink in the center with miso-glazed eggplant; and rice pudding with plenty of tasty caramel for dessert. // R.deC.

FEELING THIRSTY? A sharp selection: a Sauvignon Touraine from Barbu (€6 a glass), a Morgon from Michel Guignier (€45 a bottle)…

PRICE: Menu €24-28 (lunch), à la carte €37-46.

Late-night munchies?

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2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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