Lavomatique (Nice)

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Don’t mistake the Loubert brothers as being a little rough around the edges, they’re just a little feisty! In this former laundromat that’s been turned into a vibrant tapas joint (a brick wall, exposed piping, a wide-open kitchen), Grégoire whips out his corkscrew while Hugo stays busy in the kitchen. The latter sent out a rapid-fire succession of inspired tapas the night we went: a winning gyoza quintet; crispy fried chicken with teriyaki sauce; simple plancha-grilled zucchini with pistachios and tarragon; a mouthwatering veal tongue burger with a generous amount of ketchup and mustard; maddeningly good falafel, fried upon order; before a good lemon tart. // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? A low-intervention “rinse cycle,” if you will: a Loire Gamay from Puzelat (€6 a glass), a Bordeaux Merlot from the Château de Piote (€57 a bottle), a Jura white from Julien Labet (€65)…

PRICE: Plates €7-14.

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2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


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