Le 6 Paul Bert
The good times are back to stay at the corner of rue Paul-Bert! After swaying for a few months, but never quite capsizing, the modernist ship captained by Bertrand Auboyneau (Bistrot Paul Bert, Cave du Paul Bert and L’Écailler du Bistrot), has brought back its beloved prix-fixe lunch menu (appetizer, main and dessert for €22) in a new version arranged by Richard Maizel (ex-Piège). The dining room hasn’t lost its stylish factory feel (a show-stopping kitchen, a communal table, white marble) and we can bistro is peace once more. The other day at lunch: wonderful and natural gooseneck barnacles with a sea lettuce mayo – a lukewarm fennel soup with slightly bland goat cheese; a deliciously meaty half-pithiviers with slivers of foie gras and pigeon breast set atop an impeccable flaky pastry crust; and a handful of apricots with tarragon on an ethereal shortbread crust. At night, the menu opens up the sails and gets out the big guns: a beautiful grilled avocado with roasted seaweed and anchovies; escargot cromesquis; veal sweatbreads with white asparagus, almonds and sea beans; brill with radishes, peas and verbena…. And to drink, the house takes a natural approach: a delicious Austrian Revolution White Solera from Johannes Zillinger (€8 a glass) or an elegant red Burgundy from Julien Guillot (€8.50), amongst others. Menu €22 (weekday lunch). À la carte €38-62. // A.A.