Le 6 Paul Bert
Neo-bistro today, neo-bistro forever! After a few HR shakeups, the most contemporary of Bertrand Auboyneau’s spots (who also owns La Cave Paul Bert, L’Ecailler du Bistrot and Le Bistrot Paul Bert), with its pretty post-industrial dining room, a marble counter and an open kitchen, has finally gotten its groove back. That’s where Hideo Uemura (ex-Chez Julien) perfects his lunch menu (€22), like the day we went: a bright pea soup with feta and arugula; steamed hake with roasted yellow zucchini, broccoli and a garlic purée – or lacquered pork ribs with pan-fried bok choy and new potatoes; before a banana cake with vanilla yogurt for dessert. At night? There’s a four-course menu for €48, or the traditional à la carte selection with cool, classic dishes served in generous portions: pigeon and foie gras pithiviers (€32); lamb chops with artichokes and zucchini-mint purée (€29); rack of pork to share (€54)… Naturally, the natural wine selection is something to be reckoned with: a white Savoie from Giachino (€8 a glass), a red from Imanol Garay in the Pyrenees (€9), a Tavel from Eric Pfifferling (€40 a bottle), a Jura from Céline Gormally (€55). Set menus €22 (weekday lunch) and €48 (dinner). À la carte €42-58. // O.J.