Le 6 Paul Bert

Welcome to Bertrand Auboyneau’s most contemporary address! Brought to you by the king of Rue Paul-Bert (Bistrot Paul Bert, L’Ecailler du Bistrot and La Cave du Paul Bert are him as well!), you’ll find chef Hideeo Uemura (ex-Chez Julien) inside the sparkling stainless-steel kitchen, stitching together some outstanding dishes of various sizes which can be shared at the marbled bar or around red Formica tables. Served à la carte the night we went: a half tangy, half sweet purple gazpacho, combining tomatoes, purple cabbage and red berries, served with blue cheese from Auvergne; crispy whelk beignets with a creamy miso mousse for dipping; perfectly flash-seared bonito tataki that was simply irresistible paired with daikon radish, shiso and spicy yuzu; incredible octopus with red bean hummus and pimentón; before a minimalist flaky pastry with red berries, flanked by some ultra-creamy fontainebleau. At lunchtime, Hideo unveils his winning formula (your choice between two appetizers and two mains), for example, eggplant beignets with white bean hummus, followed by octopus served with bok choy. // V.Z.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a rainbow of natural wines to choose from: a Occitan white from Muriel Zoldan (€6 a glass), a Roussillon orange from the Domaine Matassa (€48 a bottle), an Auvergne red from Patrick Bouju (€42)…

PRICE: Menu €22 (lunch), plates €7-26, shared cuts of meat €50-60.