A windowed door framed in neon yellow, waxed concrete floors, school chairs and an open kitchen… Le 975 is quite the looker! Running things, you’ll find Taiki Tamao, who was first in his class under Marc Veyrat, lighting up market produce and the catch of the day. Take the day we went for lunch, with the unbeatable bistrologic set menu for €17: an explosive beetroot velouté with pomegranate and cilantro sprouts; duck breast with a cherry jus, stracciatella and fennel; before the surprise of a violet jelly with a blackberry sorbet over rhubarb compote. At night, the most happening spot on rue Guy-Môquet serves a five-course tasting menu (€39) or the chance to explore things à la carte: a show-off cod brandade with spices, herring roe and horseradish (€11); pork cheeks with a kimchi jus and mashed potatoes (€19), etc. As for the bottles, his partner Mathieu Orazi (who met the chef at Antoine Heerah’s Le Chamarré Montmartre) cajoles around a hundred labels: an Alsace-Riesling from Lucas and André Rieffel (€7 a glass), a Morgon Côte du Py from Damien Coquelet (€38 a bottle) or a superb Côte-Rôtie, Le Gallet Blanc, from François Villard (€105). Set menu €17 (lunch), menu €39, à la carte €38-46. // A.M.-D.