Le Bel Ordinaire
The fruit of a financial partnership between Cyrille Rosetto (a former e-businessman) and Sébastien Demorand (a food critic), Le Bel Ordinaire is a wine bar and cave à manger done up with lovely apple green walls and a high ceiling. Plucked from the dizzying heights of the oak and galva steel shelves, beautiful gourmet products are prepared by a young and energetic chef (Nicolas Fabre, ex-Semilla) behind the tiled counter. There were some ups and downs the day we went for lunch, seated around the lone, long oak table: a rich Saint-Germain soup made with split peas from the Ferme de Chassagne and Iberian ham (€8); a fresh salad of octopus and potato cooked in olive oil, with an orange, olive and caper dip, plus a bush of fennel, radicchio, puntarella and Thai cilantro (€9); overcooked penne with leeks and haddock; Morteau sausage couscous with hints of butternut squash and daikon radish, seasoned with a spellbinding veal-harissa broth (€11); and a minimalist sheep’s milk lemon cream (€6) that was siphoned onto the plate like a cloud and sprinkled with mint leaves and cranberry granola. And what should you wash it all down with? There’s a fine selection of natural wines to choose from, including Martin Fou, an Alsatian Sylvanner from Christophe Lindenlaud (€6 a glass), or La Souteronne, a Gamay from Hervé Souhaut in the Ardèche (€22.50 a bottle + €7 corkage fee). Tapas €6-12. // M.J.-D.