Le Beurre Noisette
Solidly anchored in the shade of the Maréchaux boulevards that encircle the city, chef Thierry Blanqui has been welcoming in guests since 2001 at this well-run bistro (cushioned benches, a retro coatrack, table d’hôte) that’s rather meat-centric (pork loin with coco de Paimpol beans, Simmental hanger steak with new potatoes, €18), but which also has some other options…. That day, we lunched on the €32 menu-carte: a sensual turnip cream with grated foie gras; delicious haddock brandade with mashed green cabbage and lotus root chips; before a comforting rice pudding with milk ice cream and a silky caramel mousse. At night, the menu is even more refined: demi-sel cod with a langoustine jus and baked fennel; roasted Challans duck breast with sautéed carrot purée (€21 each), etc. Make it even gourmet with one of the fine wines: a biotic Médoc from the Château Méric (€6 a glass), a dry Muscat, Le Petit Closi (€24 a bottle), a red Languedoc from Les Creisses (€28), etc. Menu-carte €23-32 (lunch), €38-56 (dinner). // T.M.