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Le Bien Venu

Restaurant Le Bien Venu in ParisLe Bien Venu (Paris) - © Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier

Florent Ciccoli, one of the ringleaders of the team behind the Bars Populaires (Jones, Au Passage, L’Orillon Bar), has struck out on his own at the Hôtel Bienvenue restaurant – the third and latest opus from Adrien Gloaguen (the man behind Panache and Paradis). In this classy spot designed by Chloé Nègre, you’ll find tucked away amongst the hotel’s very fifties lines, a tree-lined terrace and a lichen green boudoir with floral notes, ideal for digging into the high-flying dishes dreamt up by Maori Murota (ex-Verre volé-sur-mer and Düo) and executed by Minou Sabahi (ex-Pères populaires). The day we went for lunch, on the €19 menu: silky and plump pork and lamb gyoza-style dumplings; spellbinding smoked eel over a bed of red rice, bitter cucumber, lotus flower, omelet and cilantro – or, for the same price, curried vegetables or steak tartare; and for dessert, two little miso-sesame cookies with black sesame cream. At night, we share small plates (boudin noir brioche buns, haddock and yuzu carpaccio, buffalo ricotta with anchovies from Guetaria, €10), while the Bourgogne Aligoté from Jean-Claude Rateau (€5 a glass) and the Cheverny from the Domaine de Veilloux (€27 a bottle) say “bienvenue!” Lunch menu €16 and €19. Dinner €10 a plate. // Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier

Getting there

Restaurant Le Bien Venu
23, rue Buffault
TEL: +33 1 48 78 32 18
Subway: Cadet, Notre-Dame de Lorette