Armand and Sophie Crespo’s very first establishment (they’re also responsible for Comptoir du Marché, Bar des Oiseaux, and Peixes) is an outpost of Niçoise bistronomy. It’s never empty, reservations are essential and what’s more, nothing has changed since it opened in 2006. You’ll still find the same terroir dishes, sweet prices and unfussy setting as always (an open kitchen, a wooden bar, plus a terrace on a pedestrian street). Featured on the blackboard menu during our last visit: good boudin noir and Reinette apple compote; always-fashionable, old-timey stewed pork cheeks; sexy grilled duck breast; delicious preserved artichokes served with sliced tuna in soy sauce and a lentil caviar mousse; delicious wild brill fillets with a pea cream and seasonal vegetables; and a perfect red berry panna cotta. // L.S.
FEELING THIRSTY? A smart selection: a Gard red or white from the Domaine de Gournier (€4 a glass), a Drôme red from the Domaine Chaume-Arnaud (€14 a jug), a Côtes-de-Provence rosé from the Château Henri Bonnaud (€31 a bottle) or a Bellet red from the Domaine de Toasc (€65).
PRICE: À la carte €30-53.