If a Bistrot Liberation Front existed, this would be its headquarters! This retro spot (sparkly gilded rafters, a Formica bar, ugly brown floors, neon lights) shows off an arsenal that breaks the non-proliferation treaty of bistro weapons: saucisson, cured ham, aged Laguiole cheese… from €7 to €9.50 a plate. A just bistrotière cause that’s defended every day at lunch with shots fired of fresh celery rémoulade (€6.50), herring and potato salad nestled over salad and red onions (€6.50), honey-glazed pork ribs with a riot of fries (€15), and a radical chocolate mousse, just to blow up any sense of moderation (€7). Pop open some wine while you’re at it: an Alsace Pinot noir from Rietsch (€6.50 a glass), a Burgundy Macôn from Jouveaux (€37 a bottle), a Franche-Comté red from Pascal Henriot (€22). Set menu €19 (weekday lunch), à la carte €30-45. // A.A.