Le Café de Mars

In a busted-up corner bistro near Rue Saint-Dominique, Pierre Marfaing has created a blissful bistro enclave: ceramic tile floors, a Formica bar, crimson banquettes and a tiny terrace lined with potted plants… What should you expect? A blackboard menu that has a mishmash of nomadic influences from Korean chef Jun Jeonggil (ex-Hôtel Bachaumont), who took over from the California-born chef, Gina Mclintock, in summer 2019. On the menu for 26 bucks the day we went for lunch: a delicate lamb’s lettuce salad with green almonds, pear and sweet potato; Asian-fusion arancini made with nori leaves, plus a red cabbage salad and a chili emulsion; before a refreshing fennel ice cream placed atop juicy roasted figs. Regulars are also likely to nibble on the signature dishes from Gina’s time here, served à la carte, like rib-eye steak marinated in beer and served with shiitakes, or goat’s milk cheesecake. Worth noting: Saturday’s at noon there’s a live jazz lunch. // R.de.C.

FEELING THIRSTY? Naturalizing wines: Picpoul-de-Pinet Les Equilibristes (€5 a glass), Terrasses-du-Larzac from La Réserve d’O (€50 a bottle), Ne Fais Pas Sans Blanc, an Ardèche white from Sylvain Bock (€29)…

PRICE: Menus €23-26 (weekday lunch), à la carte €36-46.