Feeling like a menu with a fighting spirit? Head to the Berthaud brothers’ café-bistro, where Jean selects the wines and Henri works in the kitchen. The latter stews up local and organic cuisine, served by his brother on the varnished tables in a recently remodeled bistro – a brand new solid oak bar, shiny benches, maritime paintings by Nico Ferniot…. On the menu the other day (€21.90): a mishmash of razor clams and whelks, mandolined black radishes and a celery rémoulade with homemade aioli; incredible breaded pork with a tonkatsu sauce that you undress like a geisha, with sautéed Chinese cabbage and baby turnips; followed by a delicate and creamy cheesecake on a Breton shortbread crust, sweetened by roasted pineapple. The wines are just as persuasive: a toasty and buttery Chenin Les Varennes 2014 from the Domaine Les Roches Sèches (€29 a bottle) or a full-bodied Malbec from the Bodega Tamari (€5.20 a glass). Menus €21.90 to €25.50 (lunch) and €34.90 (dinner). // G.L.-P.