The mailman and the neighbors are regulars at the bar of this bistro with red (the banquettes) and black (the tables and chairs) tones. Here you’ll find Henri Berthaud, who takes care of the cuisine, and his brother Jean, who takes care of the service and the wine, who guarantee a good time over and over again thanks to their blackboard menu filled with organic vegetables. The day we went, the week’s menu included the following: tender Albacore tuna mi-cuit placed atop a bed of bulgur and covered with pink radish petals in a lemon-sesame vinaigrette; a beautiful veal hanger steak served medium rare in a reduction, (well) accompanied by artichokes, carrots and new potatoes; before (or after the reputed cheeses from Lecoq in Nantes) a legendary Petit Lu crumble on an almond dacquoise, with strawberries and a quilt of mascarpone cream. // D.C.
FEELING THIRSTY? Loire today, Loire forever (Couleur de Breuil, an Anjou white from the Domaine des Petites Rochettes and Les Granges, a Chinon red from Bernard Baudry at €5.50 a glass), without ostracizing outsiders: a Ventoux white from the Domaine de Fondrèche (€28 a bottle), Les Vaux, a Mercurey red from Paul and Marie Jacqueson (€42), etc.
PRICE: Set menu €23.90 and menu €29 (lunch), set menu €29.90 and menu €33.50 (Thursday night).