In this likable bistro (red tones, deep benches, offbeat paintings), Henri Berthaud stews up some carefully made market cuisine, which is then served by his brother Jean. The day we went for lunch, on the €25.50 set menu of the day: crisp green asparagus, mozzarella, lardons and hazelnut pesto; veal rump with taggiasche olives moistened by an impeccable soy jus; plus a raspberry-rhubarb sablé breton with mascarpone and almond butter for the incredibly fresh, moist dessert. For the drinks, place your trust in Jean: a Muscadet, cuvée Clos des Briors from the Domaine La Pépière (€5 a glass), Les Granges, a Chinon from Bernard Baudry (€5), a Côte-de-Brouilly from Pierre Cotton (€39 a bottle), or a white Saumur from the Domaine Mélaric (€28). Set lunch menus €21.90 to €25.50, Thursday night €26.50 to €30.90. // A.Be.