Le Cerisier en Ville
After putting in 32 years at Le Cerisier in the small town of Laventie, chef Eric Delerue decided to uproot and replant his fruit tree in the center of the Vieux-Lille neighborhood. On the ground floor of a brand-new building all done up with white tones and big windows, he shakes things up with La Griotte, while this gastronomic restaurant upstairs brings a little funk to bourgeois taste buds. The day we went for lunch, the €84 tasting menu at Le Cerisier was served on one of the solid oak tables: bluefin tuna splashing around in a lively pond of green apple and horseradish; generous morel mushrooms with romaine lettuce in an amber vin jaune jus; amphibian veal sweetbreads with surf & turf vibes via porcini mushrooms and smoked eel; a giant cherry trompe-l’oeil dessert with Morello cherry mousse, fresh thyme and summer lemon; an extra-fine meringue served with ciflorette strawberries and an arugula mousse. Worth noting: there are four cozy bedrooms which you can reserve on the third floor. // L.P.
FEELING THIRSTY? Confidentielle de Figuère, a Côtes-de-Provence rosé (€7 a glass); Terre Blanches, a Pouilly-Fumé from Pascal Jolivet (€46 a bottle),;a 2011 Pomerol from the Château Le Chemin (€100)…
PRICE: Menus €55 (weekday lunch) and €84.