This hidden space doesn’t seem like much at first, but Xavier Bousquet’s restaurant is quite notable. He practices the art of haute bistro cuisine with sétois – or rather “cétois” – flavors (a reference to his hometown of Sète). With its benches, mirrors, Formica furniture and dim globular lighting, this spot has had lots of success with a very elegant Rive Gauche clientele. The cuisine, prepared by Shinpei Oue, is a sure bet, with outstanding prices at lunch (Sète squid salad with semolina and brunoise; slow-cooked Lozère lamb shoulder with heirloom vegetables, and salted caramel rice pudding for €26) and much more inflated prices at night. For the nocturnal version, the night we went: extraordinary octopus from Cadaquès on a bed of leeks, tapenade and purple cabbage; followed by an insane warm veal pâté with a port reduction and black trumpet mushrooms and herbs on the side; and since the night was still young, a deliciously creamy Paris-Cette seemed in order…. The wine list is excellent as well: Chablis from De Moor (€7 a glass), Côtes-Catalanes from Pithon (€5), Saint-Émilion from Le Château Meylet (€50 a bottle) and Racines from Claude Courtois (€45). Set menu options €22-26 (lunch), à la carte €50-75 (dinner). // Y.S.