A true godsend in a neighborhood lacking in good food, Mikaël Streiff (ex-Les Petits Plats) and Guillaume Samson’s La Charabia is equal parts Parisian steak-frites and Bordeaux duck breast. The night we went, seated around the island bar or on school chairs, after savoring a perfect finger-tickling apéro (whelks and watercress aioli, panisse fries dipped into cervelle de canut cheese), the kitchen sent out a cheeky feast: artichokes in an oxtail broth with lemony notes; outstanding veal hanger steak with an olive jus, tender potatoes and asparagus; before an incredible baba au rhum, with plenty of vanilla and rum. As a bonus, all the essentials for meat-lovers are there (hand-cut steak tartare, rump steak, prime rib upon request), along with butter and jam tartines (plus freshly squeezed orange juice) to go with your morning coffee. // Dante Nolleau
FEELING THIRSTY? Choose one of the irreproachable low-intervention wines: a 100% Muscadelle pétillant naturel from the Vignobles Pueyo in Libourne (€7.50 a glass), a blend of Viogniers from Les Chais du Port de la Lune (€34 a bottle) and Kéké, an Olympic-level Beaujolais from Descombes (€55 for a magnum).
PRICE: Set menu €18 (lunch), à la carte €35-40. Breakfast €7.50, apéro plates €8-11.