Le Chardenoux is taking to the sea! After over a century of rib-eye steaks with béarnaise sauce and a year of intense renovations, this historical monument of the gourmet 11th arrondissement has regained its luster – now featuring a chandelier hanging from the luxurious hand-painted ceiling! In the dining room with glorious mouldings and almost Ladurée-esque pale green tones, Captain Lignac has left dry land, giving his globetrotting bistro cuisine a salty slap from the sea. Caught on the new aqua-chic menu and served by the talented team: a crispy galette with tourteau crab, Madras curry and avocado – a cult-favorite recipe from the Bar des Près (€25); a handful of shrimp heated up by some spicy chipotle mayo (€12); a lobster roll with an unfortunately overly sweet cocktail sauce, elegantly tucked in a toasted brioche bun (€27); mini fried sole goujons and eggplant tempura for a sumptuous fish & chips with tartar sauce (€28); before a rich millefeuille with vanilla crème pâtissière and waves of pecan praliné (€12). And to drown all that seafood? A mineral Sancerre, Le Chêne Marchand (€12 a glass), a red Rully from the Domaine Dureuil Janthial (€14), or even a Muscadet from Jo Landron (€38 a bottle), unless you have the means to climb the mast of a menu that hoists the sails high – from €26 to€365. Appetizers €12-25, shellfish platters for two €65, dishes €22-90, desserts €11-12. // T.B.-R.