A sense of citizentude reigns over this one-stop-eatery (big windows, timeworn oak tables, dimly-lit corners) camped out on the ground floor of the Citizen Hôtel across from the Canal Saint-Martin. The other day at lunch, we indulged in a lively menu that was focused on the current season and expertly crafted by chef Adélie Delajot (ex-Ô Divin): a reinvigorating spicy mushroom velouté sprinkled with seeds and herbs; a seductive piece of roasted guinea fowl surrounded lovingly by new potatoes and shiitakes glazed in the meat’s star anise-infused juices; before a very comforting apple-quince tart that left us speechless! There’s a clever breakfast selection in the morning (scones, gluten-free orange cake, apricot-white chocolate brioche…), while at night, Adélie opens up her box of wonders, serving things like veal sweetbreads with mussels and parsnip, or whole sea bream with seasonal vegetables. Between the two, you can always adopt a well-bred hot dog made with homemade sausage, fried capers and often served on turmeric-spiced buns. FYI: it’s a brunch-only zone on the weekends: homemade granola, soft-boiled eggs, smoked bacon, salmon gravlax… // A.A.
FEELING THIRSTY? Coffee from the Marseille roaster Deep (€2.50 for an espresso), homemade lemonade (€4) and a few natural bottles: a Roussillon Carignan from Jean-Philippe Padié (€6 a glass), an Alsace-Riesling from Brigitte and Vincent Fleith (€42 a bottle), etc.
PRICE: Set menus €17-19 (weekday lunch), hot dogs €9, à la carte €30-35. Brunch €23 (Saturday and Sunday).