Le Comptoir à Manger
Biggest crush of 2018
You’ve got to be patient to get a table at this restaurant/cabana (exposed rafters, fresh flowers, light wood, an open kitchen). Tucked away between the timbered buildings of the Petite France neighborhood, Carole and Bérangère’s Comptoir à Manger (Fooding d’amour winner, Le Guide Fooding 2018) shakes up the customs of this chic neighborhood. Locavorists through and through (except for the olive oil and pepper!), the young witches serve a set six-course tasting menu (€42) shot through the heart with vegetal flavors: a mixture of raw and roasted potatoes in an earthy Vosges mushroom broth; cheeky squash ravioli dressed in an incredible blood peach vinaigrette; a sweetly hypnotic white trout fillet from Les Sources du Heimbach in a verbena-infused butter sauce; roasted yellow beets with an incredibly sensual béarnaise sauce; shredded leg of lamb confit in a woodruff broth, served with a chard gratin; then raw and puréed Mirabelle plums, served with corn ice cream and homemade popcorn. Wash it all down with a few happy spells: an Alsace from Pierre Frick (€6 a glass), or one from their friends Kumpf et Meyer (€24 a bottle), a tasty Beaujolais-Villages from Michel Guignier (€38). Menu €42 (food and wine pairing €26). // R.deC.